|
It
seemed
that
Marc
had
to
ask
his
clothes
back
he
had
lent
to
the
woman
when
she
was
cold
a
few
days
ago
and
she
was
complaining
constantly
about
her
heavy
pack...,
meanwhile
the
other
couple
still
had
to
tie
all
the
needed
8-nuts
every
morning
as
they
didn't
know
how
to
do
that
themselves.
Marc
has
been
a
captain
(at
sea)
for
may
years
and
the
next
few
days
he
proved
to
be
as
valuable
for
a
successful
summit
attempt
as
an
ice axe:
after
looking
at
the
skies
above
and
below
us
he
could
give
an
exact
forecast
for
the
next
few
days,
differing
for
the
different
altitudes.
When
the
official
weather
report
from
the
rangers
warned
it
would
storm
110
km/h
that
evening
he
took
one
look
and
said:
"There
will
be
storm,
but
no
more
than
50km/h
and
tomorrow
the
wind
will
be
less".
And
everyday
he
was
right!
(And
the
official
broadcasted
ranger
weather reports
were
mostly
wrong!)
The
next
few
days
we
also
took
a
little
hike
to
what
is
called
'the
edge
of
the
world';
you
will
know
why
it
is
named
that
way
if
you
go
there.
After
a
short
(20minute)
walk
on
the
base camp
glacier,
the
ice
suddenly
ends,
dropping
over
1000m
vertical.
We
anchored
ourselves
to
one
of
the
rocks
at
the
edge
and
enjoyed
the
magnificent
view
of
Mt
Foraker,
Mt
Hunter
and
the
West
Rib
of
Denali.
We
also
saw
most
of
the
way
we
took
up
the
Kahiltna
glacier,
the
weather
was
perfect
and
we
really
enjoyed
our
little
day
trip.
That
day
a
few
really
tough
Alaskan
guys
(2
meter
each,
grungy
looks
and
cool
voices)
came
down
from
high
camp
(5200m)
after
spending
3
days
there,
waiting
for
a
nice
day
to
summit.
They
had
tried
to
make
camp
by
building
a
snow
wall,
but
every
40x40x40cm
snow/ice
block
(these
weigh
about
15
kilos
each
there)
they
cut
out
and
put
on
the
ground
just
said:
"whoooiessssjjj"
and
they
were
blown
off
the
ridge.
So
they
dug
a
snow
hole
but
after
a
few
days
they
had
lost
so
much
energy
they
had
to
come
down.
On
Day
11
our
weather guru
Marc
told
us
that
there
might
be
a
weather
change
(on
the
summit
is
was
still
storming)
and
we
decided
to
bring
up
a
few
days
of
food
and
one
of
the
tents
the
next
day
and
see
if
we
could
stay
at
high
camp
and
maybe
push
for
the
summit
the
next
day.
The
two
crazy
Americans
were
running
around
nervously
and
were
asking
everybody
about
their
plans
but
no-one
would
really
talk
to
them.
So
we
weren't
really
surprised
when
we
saw
them
leave
hastily
for
the
headwall
early
the
next
morning.
We
left
a
few
hours
later,
packed
with
about
5
days
of
food
&
fuel,
gear
and
a
tent.
This
made
the
packs
very
heavy
and
we
were
going
very
slow.
After
about
100
vertical
meters
I
felt
sick
to
my
stomach
and
weak
in
my
legs,
all
within
a
few
seconds.
I
called
Jose,
said
I
needed
a
rest,
but
was
unable
to
stand
on
my
feet
and
had
to
sit
down
on
the
snow
feeling
completely
weak.
One
of
the
rangers
passed
and
he
gave
me
some
water
and
radioed
the
camp
doc.
He
advised
me
to
go
down
and
Jose
and
me
decided
that
he
would
take
the
food
and
would
try
to
cache
it
on
the
top
of
the
fixed
lines,
at
4900m,
so
we
wouldn't
have
to
bring
that
up
again.
I
would
take
his
sleeping
bag,
mattress
etc
and
go
down.
When
I
went
down
I
went
to
see
the
doc,
who
asked
me
all
about
my
physical
and
mental
situation,
mountaineering
and
altitude
experience.
I
said
that
this
was
not
altitude
disease
(Acute
Mountain
Sickness
or
AMS),
at
least
not
as
I
knew
it.
He
checked
my
oxygen
saturation
level
with
one
of
those
new
little
machines,
but
that
said
86,
which
meant
I
was
at
least
acclimatized
enough
to
the
current
altitude
and
therefore
this
100m
extra
should
have
been
no
problem.
It
seemed
that
I
hade
not
been
drinking
and
eating
enough
and
he
advised
me
to
take
some
soup
and
some
carbohydrates
which
seemed
like
a
good
idea
to
me.
When
I
went
into
my
tent
to
prepare
some
noodle
soup
I
saw
a
large
group
of
people
standing
at
the
base
of
the
fixed
lines.
I
heard
that
here
was
a
little
'bergschrund'
a
1,5
meter
vertical
piece
of
ice
that
you
had
to
overcome,
but
it
seemed
that
nobody
was
moving
at
all
up
there.
I
drank
my
soup,
ate
some
powerbars
and
rested
for
30
minutes.
When
I
came
out
again
I
felt
a lot
better
and
I
asked
the
doc
if
it
was
ok
to
give
it
another
try.
He
thought
that
would
be
ok,
as
I
didn't
seem
to
suffer
from
AMS.
So
I
packed
my
bags
and
started
up
the
big
slope
again.
To
my
amazement
the
group
at
the
fixed
lines
seemed
to
have
grown,
but
still
nobody
was
moving
up
the
lines.
The
headwall
is
about
600
m
high,
the
first
400
is
just
a
steep
snowfield
with
little
crevasse
risk
and
but
after
the
bergschrund
it
changes
into
40-60
degrees
steep
ice,
hence
the
fixed
ropes.
I
went
up
slowly
and
about
halfway
I
met
the
Austrian
couple
who
were
really
pissed
off.
"Up
there
is
a
stupid
woman
who
has
been
on
the
fixed
lines
several
hours
and
she
does
not
know
how
to
move
back
or
forth!
She
blocks
the
way
and
nobody
can
pass,
so
we
are
going
down
and
will
try
again
tomorrow...".
It
took
me
about
a
split
second
to
realize
who
that
woman
was
...
When
I
was
about
a
100m
away
from
the
group
I
saw
Jose
climb
up
the
other
rope,
which
is
meant
for
descending
only.
I
shouted
at
him,
but
he
did
not
hear
me.
My
stomach
was
better
but
I
was
still
very
tired,
and
it
took
me
another
45
minutes
to
reach
the
stuck
group.
At
that
time
it
it
turned
out
that
Ivan
and
Marc
actually
had
to
rescue
the
2
crazy
Americans
from
the
rope
as
they
could
not
move
up
or
down.
First
they
lowered
their
backpacks
down
the
steep
part
just
before
the
fixed
lines
and
then
they
helped
the
Americans
down.
The
other
couple
was
clearly
embarrassed
at
this
sight
and
Ivan
and
Marc
were
not
happy
either.
I
passed
them
to
start
on
the
fixed
ropes
by
myself,
but
just
as
I
was
at
the
base
of
the
bergschrund
I
heard
Jose
coming
down.
He
was
really
amazed
to
see
me
up
there:
"
I
though
you
were
sick?"
he
asked
"
I
thought
so
to"
I
replied"
but
I
feel
a
little
better
now
and
brought
all
the
stuff
we
need
to
camp,
should
we
go
up?"
"
I
can't,
I
really
can't!"
I
could
see
that,
he
was
looking
very
tired
after
taking
up
an
extremely
heavy
load,
containing
the
tent
and
5
days
of
food.
It
wouldn't
be
a
wise
idea,
as
I
was
not
feeling
so
good
myself
so
we
left
some
stuff
we
did
not
need
in
base camp
and
descended
together,
both
really
tired
and
dehydrated.
Down
in
camp
we
heard
that
many
people
had
talked
to
the
crazy
Americans
and
that
they
had
to
see
the
rangers
in
the
morning.
Jose
and
I
asked
Marc
about
his
weather
forecast
and
after
consulting
our
barometers
and
the
skies
he
said
that
tomorrow
and
the
day
after
might
be
without
wind,
so
we
should
try
again
if
we
could.
That
night
we
slept
in
one
tent
again
but
got
up
very
late
as
our
bodies
were
still
exhausted.
When
making
breakfast
we
saw
the
2
Americans
return
from
the
ranger
hut,
and
they
were
not
looking
very
happy.
Later
we
found
out
from
the
other
couple
that
the
rangers
had
literally
forbid
them
to
go
up
the
mountain
anymore
and
threatened
them
with
arrest
if
they
tried.
Unfortunately
the
previous
day
had
taken
the
fun
out
of
Marc
and
Ivan's
trip
and
they
decided
to
go
down
the
next
day.
They
had
driven
all
the
way
from
the
east coast
of
Canada
to
the
Denali,
not
to
go
for
the
summit,
but
to
enjoy
the
experience
and
the
views.
Many
years
before
Ivan
was
there
with
4
friends,
but
he
had
to
descend
before
the
summit
attempt.
His
friends
did
go
up,
but
got
lost
on
the
way
down
and
fell
to
their
death
down
the
Messner
couloir...
Marc
told
me
that
they
really
liked
meeting
us,
but
that
these
crazy
Americans
had
ruined
it
for
them.
We
wished
them
a
good
trip
and
headed
up
the
headwall
again.
We
had
met
another
Dutch
guy,
Elio,
in
camp
who
had
tried
to
summit
the
day
before,
right
from
base camp
with
his
Swiss
partner,
but
his
partner
had
gotten
sick
at
Denali
pass,
around
5500m
and
they
had
to
return.
His
partner
was
still
not
feeling
well
and
he
had
asked
if
he
could
join
us.
But
halfway
up
the
headwall
he
suddenly
changed
his
mind
said
he
was
unsure
about
the
weather
and
that
he
would
go
down
again,
and
try
for
the
summit
from
base camp
the
next
day.
3
years
before
he
was
on
Denali
as
well,
his
tent
got
blown
to
pieces
in
a
storm
at
high
camp
(5200m)
and
he
had
to
find
refuge
in
a
Russian
tent.
Then
he
and
a
few
Russians
spend
another
few
days,
jus
sitting
in
the
tent
with
their
backs
to
the
wall,
so
the
tent
would
not
collapse,
hoping
that
they
would
not
blow
off
the
mountain.
I
assured
him
that
Marc's
forecast
was
always
right,
but
he
had
made
up
his
mind
and
went
down;
I
asked
him
if
it
was
our
(slow)
speed
and
he
said
that
that
had
to
do
with
it
as
well.
The
rangers
were
just
finishing
with
replacing
part
of
the
fixed
roped
that
had
to
be
cut
by
Marc
the
previous
day
to
get
the
Americans
off
and
Jose
and
I
could
start
on
a
brand
new
rope.
Crossing
the
bergschrund
was
interesting,
it
took
one
big
swing
of
the
ice axe,
some
front pointing
of
the
crampons
and
a
few
rock climbing
moves,
but
we
passed
it
within
a
minute.
The
ice
was
steep
and
we
were
feeling
the
altitude
effects
and
therefore
it
took
us
quite
some
time
to
get
up
this
part
of
the
route.
When
we
finally
were
at
the
end
of
the
lines
at
4900m
it
was
already
after
19.00
and
we
were
in
doubt
about
what
to
do.
The
weather
was
still
nice
and
it
would
be
light
up
here
until
at
least
midnight,
but
after
loading
the
cached
tent
and
the
food
the
packs
were
so
heavy
that
we
could
hardly
stand,
let
alone
climb
the
steep
and
narrow
ridge
to
high
camp.
But
we
didn't
feel
like
camping
on
this
narrow
ridge
or
digging
a
snowhole
either
so
we
decided
to
give
it
a
try.
It
was
really
step
by
step
and
we
had
to
be
very
careful
to
stay
on
our
feet.
At
one
point
I
thought
I
stepped
my
crampons
in
another
piece
of
packed
snow,
but
just
as
I
moved
my
balance
on
that
foot,
the
snow
came
off
and
I
started
sliding
down
the
steep
slope.
My
reflexes
still
were
ok
and
with
one
swing
of
my
faithful
ice axe
I
managed
to
stop
the
slide
and
got
on
my
feet
again.
It
took
me
a
few
minutes
to
get
my
heart rate
and
breathing
back
to
normal
and
we
continued
up.
We
took
a
break
at
the
big
rock
known
as
"Washburn's
Thumb",
named
after
the
first
man
to
climb
Denali,
about
50
years
ago.
It
was
getting
late
and
we
started
again.
This
time
Jose
slipped
but
he
performed
self-arrest
as
well.
The
track
led
us
over
the
very
top
of
the
narrow
ridge
and
the
views
were
amazing.
Although
is
was
nearly
23.00
the
sun
was
still
up
and
there
was
enough
light
to
continue,
but
our
energy
levels
were
dropping
with
the
temperature...
The
track
went
through
several
rocks,
passed
some
steep
parts
and
finally
led
us
to
a
flat
part
known
as
high
camp.
There
were
5
tents
and
we
pitched
our
right
next
to
them.
It
was
now
midnight,
the
sun
had
disappeared
behind
a
ridge
but
the
full
moon
was
bright
enough.
The
temperature
dropped
below
-25
and
I
had
to
take
care
of
my
fingers
when
I
was
making
some
soup
to
hydrate.
Tomorrow
would
be
our
summit
day,
but
I
had
the
feeling
it
would
take
at
least
a
week
before
I
could
raise
enough
energy
to
get
moving
any
higher;
I
still
felt
the
exhaustion
of
yesterday's
climbing
and
today
I
had
only
punished
my
body
more.
Well,
let's
get
to
sleep
and
see
how
we
feel
after
one
night
at
5200m
altitude,
my
personal
overnight
record
so
far....
Day
14
I
had
quite
a
restless
sleep
and
woke
up
because
of
the
heat
in
side
the
tent.
When
I
opened
up
the
rain fly
I
saw
most
of
the
other
climbers
walking
around
in
harnesses
already
and
I
woke
Jose
up.
I
was
feeling
really
bad,
no
altitude
headaches,
but
just
total
exhaustion
(which
has
a
lot
to
do
with
the
altitude
of
course
as
the
pressure
and
therefore
the
oxygen level
was
less
than
50%
of
sea level
pressure).
I
started
the
snow
melting
but
had
problems
with
my
stove
again.
I
used
Jose's
stove
as
well,
but
it
took
a
long
time
until
we
had
enough
water
for
the
trip.
Jose
had
brought
3
cans
of
Spanish
food
(Potatoes,
chorizo
and
veggies)
that
only
had
to
warmed
up,
but
the
easy-opening
of
the
cans
broke
off
and
our
can
openers
wouldn't
work
either.
So
it
was
time
for
some
extreme
measures:
get
the
ice axe!
We
finally
managed
to
get
the
contents
out,
but
they
were
frozen
solid
of
course
and
this
took
a
long
wile
to
cook
as
well.
It
was
already
12.00
before
we
were
anywhere
near
ready
to
go
and
I
was
feeling
weaker
and
weaker.
The
weather
was
perfect:
it
was
sunny,
warm
and
there
was
no
wind
and
no
cloud
in
sight;
but
would
I
be
able
to
punish
my
body
for
another
10
hours?
I
expressed
my
doubts
to
Jose,
he
was
not
feeling
too
strong
either,
but
he
kept
on
telling
me
that
everything
was
between
my
ears
and
that
we
should
try.
We
left
about
12.30
and
started
slowly
to
the
first
part
of
this
day:
the
traverse
to
Denali
pass.
This
is
a
40
degrees
ice
and
snow
slope,
which
you
cross
diagonally
towards
Denali
pass
at
5550
meters
altitude.
This
looks
easier
than
it
is
and
it
is
actually
the
place
where
the
most
accidents
happen,
so
we
roped
up
and
went
slowly.
But
the
rope
was
more
a
nuisance
than
a
help
as
it
got
stuck
behind
several
little
pieces
of
ice
and
I
had
to
descend
3
times
to
get
it
loose.
This
got
me
even
more
tired
and
when
we
finally
arrived
at
Denali
pass,
I
had
to
stop
for
a
while.
The
next
part
was
less
steep
and
we
decided
to
continue
without
the
rope;
we
were
not
the
only
ones
as
there
were
already
3
ropes
on
the
pass.
Slowly
we
continued
up
the
ridge
toward
the
"football field"
at
5800m.
After
an
hour
we
met
Elio,
the
Dutch
guy
and
his
Swiss
partner.
He
had
started
from
Base camp
early
in
the
morning,
passed
us
and
went
to
the
summit
where
he
met
his
Swiss
friend.
They
were
amazed
that
we
were
going
up
this
late
and
said
that
we'd
better
return.
as
it
would
be
midnight
before
we
would
reach
the
summit.
We
were
now
at
5700m
and
we
decided
to
see
how
long
it
would
take
to
get
to
6000m.
If
we
could
do
that
within
3
hours,
we
would
be
ok,
if
not
we
would
have
to
think
about
returning
to
camp.
Just
when
I
was
so
tired
that
I
had
to
start
humming
to
get
my
rhythm
going
someone
was
coming
down.
It
was
an
American
guy
who
told
us
he
returned
at
5900m
because
he
wasn't
feeling
well.
I
looked
and
him
and
this
guy
looked
10
times
as
strong
as
I
felt
at
that
moment
and
and
that
moment
I
was
seriously
in
doubt
about
the
climb
to
the
summit.
But
when
we
reached
6000
only
2
hours
after
leaving
5700m
so
at
least
our
pace
was
still
alright,
albeit
on
the
thin
line
between
conscious
and
automatic.
At
6000m
we
could
see
the
real
summit
ridge
for
the
first
time
and
we
noticed
other
climbers
coming
down
from
the
summit.
We
rested
for
a
while
until
they
passed
us
and
we
shook
hands
to
congratulate
them.
When
they
passed
we
were
the
only
two
persons
above
6000m
(on
this
continent)
and
we
continued
slowly
to
the
base
of
the
summit
slope.
Step
by
step,
resting
after
every
5
steps
we
went
higher.
Jose
was
very
tired
as
well
and
we
had
about
the
same
speed.
When
we
reached
the
top
of
the
wall
I
saw
on
my
Suunto
watch
that
we
were
only
at
6100m,
so
there
were
another
94
to
go!
We
had
to
follow
the
narrow
ridge
for
another
kilometer
or
so.
At
this
moment
we
would
like
to
have
our
rope
back
as
some
of
the
track
was
actually
ON
the
25cm
wide
ridge,
with
drops
of
200m
to
the
left
and
over
as
far
as
we
could
see
to
the
right...
(continued)
----»
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